The Laotian Torture Chamber aka The VIP Express Bus from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

*** something i found out after the fact ***
"Laos – Warden Message
Reported Fighting and Troop Movement Near Vang Vieng
February 17, 2007

Multiple sources, including other embassies in Laos, report one or more incidents of fighting involving Lao Government forces, as well as sightings of increased movements underway by Lao Government forces, in the area of Vang Vieng in northern Vientiane Province on or about February 7, 2007.

At the present time, the Embassy urges U.S. citizens to use caution when traveling in and around the area of Vang Vieng and recommends against travel by any form of ground transportation north from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang.

U.S. Embassy personnel are currently prohibited from undertaking personal travel by ground transportation north of Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, along Route 13 and contiguous roadways."

"Sources who were in Vang Vieng on the weekend of 10th / 11th Feb, reported they had seen very large numbers of Lao troops to the north of Vang Vieng. The most obvious area of activity on R13 North is understood to be around 15km north of Vang Vieng. It's not clear what precisely took place, but some locals believe it may be Lao Govt "attack" on people in nearby Hmong villages connected to the Hmong refugees in Nong Khai who are scheduled to be returned to Vientiane. February through April are known to be the months of highest bandit - Lao Govt conflicts.

Vang Vieng Town itself is considered safe, but travellers should exercise caution on R13N, and for the time being - should probably avoid cycling and/or trekking too far north of Vang Vieng.

The "troubles" do appear to have spread south of Vang Vieng as well, with arrests being made as far south as Phonhong (around 70km north of Vientiane) and skirmishes taking place south of Vang Vieng over the past few days. Partly as a result of this there remains a high profile troop presence throughout Vang Vieng District.

The risk to tourists is still very low indeed. The bandits are not a competent, aggressive fighting unit looking to blow up bridges and kill tourists -- they are really just "on the run" and only fight back when they have to.

Having said that, as a tourist, it is probably not the best time to be in Vang Vieng right now simply because there are restrictions on what you can do. Certainly doesn't sound like time to try the Happy Pizzas anyway!"

So let me paint you a picture. Me and vida decide to take the public bus system in Laos because we figure it will be cheaper. Well... we were right... it was cheaper. We show up to the Bus station around 10:30am which was perfect because the next scheduled bus was leaving at 11am. Well here in the third world they have decided that they will sell you a ticket for the 11 o clock bus... but the bus doest leave until its full..... so at approximately 2pm our bus finally leaves after it is full.... and by full i mean every seat taken. And then after all the seats are gone, they place plastic chairs in the aisles on top of all the rice sacks and off we go. So the bus driver stands back and starts handing out plastic sacks... i was thinking maybe a snack bag for the road or something... oh no... they were barf bags. The road from LP to VV is so bad that even all the locals get sick on the drive. The backpackers behind us have heard stories about this bus ride and bought some Dramamine.... its what i call a horse tranquilizer. Me and Vida were trying to stay awake to enjoy some scenery but we couldn't even keep our eyes open after the Dramamine.. UNTIL ... we wake up and we are stopped on the side of the road. These narrow roads through the mountains are really scary... sharp cliff one side and speeding cars the other. The buses simply blow the horn as they are coming around the corner to warn people coming the opposite direction. So who would have guessed that there would be a really bad wreck blocking the road. So we get to side on the side of the road for 2 hours waiting for the wreck to get cleared. The people sitting behind us were smoking the entire time.... on the freaking bus. The bus stopped about every 20 minutes for all the locals to take a piss on the side of the road. But by the time all the foreigners tried to get off the bus the driver would honk and start driving off. This bus trip is suppose to take 6 hours.... and at this point we have been trying to get to VV since 10am. After waiting for the wreck to be cleared... my horse tranquilizer had kinda worn off and i was left to fend off the motion sickness myself. The driver also blare the worst music ever over the loud speaker all night (Laotian pop music is HORRIBLE). So we are almost to VV (this is now 11pm) and the driver decides to stop for dinner (this is with 30 minutes left to go)... whatever. So then we get back on the bus and head for VV. Everyone kinda snoozes off until we all feel the bus tires lock up and come screeching to a halt after the back fish-taled. So the first thing we all think is that we hit some one and now would never reach VV. But then the bus starts going in reverse.... And not to worry.... the bus driver had just spotted a delicious armadillo on the side of the road and couldn't help but risk all of our lifes to try the animal for dinner. We finally get into VV around midnight and head to the first guesthouse we see. But VV ended up being totally worth it.... definitely a highlight of the trip so far.